Vogue 1484 – a review

Vogue 1484

I have been busy with quite a few lovely commissions and although have made a few things for myself and Ms T, not had time to post.  Earlier in the year when the Eve Appeal patterns campaign was on I bought Vogue 1484 for Ms T, she love the shape and thought it would be a fun dress to wear.  Decided not to have the sheer top to the dress and chose this fun bandanna fabric with an anti-static lining.

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The pattern matching isn’t perfect, this is down to the pattern not lining up along the print and next time I’ll buy an extra half a meter to help.

One tip I would have when fitting a concealed zip is to tack it in before stitching.  I guess I’m picky to finish and always leave in my tacking if it wont be seen, it means I know where the zip will be and it doesn’t shift when sewn.  I found from instagram I’m not alone with this.

Pattern: Vogue 1484

Fabrics: Bandanna print & anti static lining

Pattern description:  Lined dress (fitting through bust) has collar, yoke, princess seams, bias sleeve and armhole binding, slightly shaped hemline and invisible back zip.

Pattern Sizing:  I did make a toile to help with fitting and the pattern did make to size, the princess seams do really make a full bust adjustment so easy to do.

Did it look like the photo/line drawing on the pattern once finished?  Yes.

What did you like or dislike about the pattern?  It was a straight forward, easy make, not using a sheer probably made this so.  I would love to make another using a sheer or lace and if I have time before Christmas will do.  It’s a great party dress.

Did I make  any pattern alterations or design changes?  The only changes I made were for fitting.

Would I sew it again or recommend to others?  Yes, would make again and it is a great well written pattern.  Not for a beginner, but not tricky.

Conclusion:  Ms T loves it and that is all that matters to me.  And with a little cut off fabric managed to make Flo a bandanna to match x

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threads

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What do you use to thread your sewing machine or to sew on a button?  There are lots of choices available now from basics to organic threads, embroidery to wooly nylon.  As a child I remember my mother using Sylko threads

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although I am sure there were many others, the Sylko iconic reels are what stay in my memory.  For many years, my go to thread was been Gutermann multi purpose.  It’s strong and comes in a huge range of colours and so easily available.  With the popularity of Aurifil threads amongst the quilters I know, thread weights started to be a conversation point, what weight to use piecing and quilting.  Something that when buying just basic multi purpose reels, I had not considered.  I have tried Aurifil and to be perfectly honest have no idea why it is so popular.  The thread snapped and frayed, it was so bad to hand sew with I binned the reel I had been given at a sewing retreat in utter desperation.

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My go to thread now is Epic 120, its super fine and strong and designed for industrial sewing machines (I buy my thread at Macculloch & Wallis purely because it’s so convenient to get to).  The reels are larger than regular thread, with 1000 metres or 5000 cones.  If your machine can not accommodate such a large reel and does not have an additional spool holder that slots to the top of your machine,

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one can find reel holders.  I also really like Mara120, although my closest stockest is over an hour to get to and I’m not a click and buy when it comes to fabrics and threads.  Cost wise these threads are also a great option as they are good value for money and a great product to work with.

tre cerchi

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I have just finished a commission where I need to chain stitch shapes into long lengths for shop backdrops and used Tre Cerchi – a 40 weight thread is ‘Sylko’ pure cotton thread.  It sewed beautifully and gave a good top stitch and formed a strong chain in between.

moon overlocking threads

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For my ovelocker I use Moon polyester thread or Wimsew’s over locking thread – the moon is much better, Wimsew is cheaper.  I have in the past used Gutermman regular threads to sew a rolled hem and this worked well.

polyester plastics to plate

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But learning more about plastics leaching into the sea not just from the bottles and disposable plastics, but fibres from our polyester clothes, I am going to try to switch all my threads to cotton or silk.  Have you tried the cotton overlocking threads, what are your experiences with it?  What are your favorite threads?  Are there any downsides to using cotton rather than polyester on an overlocker?

END PLASTIC SOUP

The WI have a campaign to end ‘plastic soup‘ and this is well worth reading.

Slow fashion October

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October is #slowfashionoctober

Slow fashion is the deliberate choice to buy better-quality items less often. When purchases are made, they’re environmentally and ethically conscious rather than trend-driven. The garments are durable and lend themselves to repairs, not disposal. Slow fashion is also transparent: Buyers know where their clothes are coming from, and items are often handmade by artisans.

Consider it the “farm to table” of the fashion world.

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I have been concerned for a long time about the ethics of fast fashion, firstly my concern over the sprays used on crops and pollutants pumped into the water, secondly the people who make them, especially after the Rana Plaza disaster brought the horrific working conditions to light.  During the summer after being made redundant I took a course called ‘who made my clothes‘, this helped teach me how to discover exactly who had made my clothes and also where the fabrics came from.  It brought up some interesting issues and also challenged those of us who took the course to do research and share what we found.  Some of the companies I wrote to were brilliant, Community Clothing for instance could tell me where the denim fabric came from and the factory who made it.  Me and Em were able to tell me what country the item was made in and the country of origin of the yarns used, Uniqlo didn’t respond to any emails, facebook or twitter questions.

image top left from Ray Stitch and bottom Celia Pym

I have been passionate about buying British quality products for may years and this has now started to become easier, making my own clothes as well helped – slowing consumption.  Although when buying fabrics, it is the fabric content that lead me, be that wool, cotton, linen or mixed fibres.  Thinking cotton was better than viscose or another man-made fibre, not thinking of who grew the fibres, processed them etc.

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My goal for this month is to repair and darn a few things, replace a zip in a pair of jeans for my daughter – maybe even teach her how to!  Having said that I’ve never replaced a zip in a pair of jeans.  Go though my wardrobe and if I’ve not worn something, see if it can be altered so I will wear it or donate to charity.  I also have an idea to make a few things, work load dependant.

Are you going to take part in #slowfashionoctober ?  If you’d like to read more about it, pop over to Fringe Association and not just a label.  If you’d like to learn more about slow fashion and more about the impact of fast fashion on people and out planet there are some good resources, this film by Thread is worth watching, as is The true cost.

wash bag – a little jungle fun

At the festival of Quilts in August, my daughter fell in love with this adorable quilting cotton at the Sew Hot stand.  So while buying some outback wife barkcloth for a dress for me, we bought a fat quarter of Bwindi Forest Moutain gorilla in green designed by Katy Tanis for Blend fabrics.  Miss T had decided she wanted a washbag for a university field trip, it needed to have a water proof lining and be large enough to hold all her lotions and potions.  After some thought she drew a shape and asked me to make it, initally I made a calico toile, added a 3 inch gusset and enlarged the shape by 2 inches all around.  This proved to be massive and I cut the inclease to 1 inch – inches easier as I am waiting for my new reading specs to arrive!

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I used a water proof fabric I had from my old job, after we cleared the studio – no idea what it is – would have been used to make snow boarding clothes many years ago.  To begin with I quilted the whole fat quarter quite heaverly and then cut out my pieces.  The gusset was cut and I inserted the zip before constructing the bag.  The lining as handsewn in afterwards, as I found that the quickest and easiest way.

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Delighted with how it worked and Ms T loves it.

 

Criss Cross Quilt

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I managed to get this quilt made quite quickly given all the work I have on at the moment.  It’s heading to my cousin who is recovering from surgery due to a horrible cancer.  Now she has recovered from the initial surgery, the chemo has begun and I thought a quilt would be something she could curl up under and give some comfort and give her a hug from me even though we live so far apart.

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The main fabrics I bought from Janet Claire at The Festival of Quilts, blues are A’s favorite colours to wear and Janet’s fabrics are so lovely – so from a 10′ layer cake of Aubade and a solid dark blue from Doughty’s also bought at FoQ.  After a little indecision,  I chopped into each square and went from there.

Once the quilt top was made I added a border to 2 sides, just to make it a little larger and then found a great cross hatch fabric at Fabrics Galore for the backing.  For the quilting I decided to follow one of the cross lines and ended up using washi tape to have a line to follow.  Five lines of stitching, to mirror the five rows or squares width.  Once I had finished I hand embroiderd a qulit lable and now just need to post it off.

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Land Girls

Over the past few weeks I have been working on a costume commission, the dungarees are a pattern based on an original Land Girl overalls.  While sewing I’ve also been watching/listerning to Land Girls on Netflix.

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The pattern I chose has a wonderful story attached, it came from Violet Florence Page’s pattern collection found in a garage in New South Wales – well worth a read.  I will review the pattern at the end of September when I can show the full outfit finished and worn by the actress who commissioned it.

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With war looming ever closer, the British government who wanted to increase the amount of food grown within Britain reformed he land girls in June 1939.  The majority of land girls were already living in the countryside, although over 1/3 came from large cities – must have been quite a shock for some of them and a breath of fresh air.  Lady Denman was their honorary leader, she had been a suffragette and was also the first president of the National Federation of Women’s Institutes.

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women’s land army statue at Alrewas, Staffordshire

Truely amazing band of women.

Autumnal sewing plans

Over the past weeks there have been some great sewing pattern offers, my daughter & I have been busy ordering quite a few.  T has chosen mainly Gertie’s Butterick patterns, can’t wait to start on these patterns – a more grown up look for Miss T and perfect for a 21 year old.   She also chose a fun Simplicity 2172, for Comic Con and Vogue 1484 for a party.  We both loved Butterick 6094 in the sheath dress version.

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For me, I’m planning Simplicity 8242, I loved the fitted jacket and skirt – may alter the cuffs a little. Vogue 8146 is a fab sheath dress and perfect for autumn/winter and so easy to wear.  I found some wonderful vintage inspired barkcloth designed by Cathi Bessell-Browne of Gertrude Made, at the Festival of Quilts and this will become a rose dress by Sew La Di Da – a perfect party dress.

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Another pattern I’m going to try is a Japanese brand M patterns, I bought this from Etsy and hope to use a boiled wool – although I have no idea of what fabrics are suggested as I can’t read Japanese.  If you can, do please comment!

 

I also have downloaded a few free PDF patterns, the 1st was free when I signed up to How to do fashion’s newsletter.  I found Nanna’s patterns at Backstitch and really like her designs.  And also have 2 Hot patterns, a bag and teddy (perfect for a hot winter holiday), I found these at Fabric.com.  Its quite a list and timewise I’m not too sure when this will all get made, Miss T’s are a priority given Comic Con is in October.  What are your sewing plans for the Autumn?

 

working on toile’s

I’ve been busy over the last few weeks, life is up and down.  I have just been made redundant from work along with the whole team, it has been a roller coaster of emotions as it came out of the blue in many respects.  The whole process of consultation had made me think, evaluate and I have decided to start working for myself, hense the silence here.  Have a few projects planned, more of those tomorrow.

The utility Coat : a review

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The Utility Coat, image for The Maker’s Atelier

With all the rain we have been having I needed to get my new raincoat made.  I found some fabulous fabric at The Cloth House warehouse sale, its cotton both sides with rubber sandwiched between, perfect for wet weather dog walking.  The Utility Coat has 2 styles, round neck and hooded, I decided on the hooded version.

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Pattern: The Utility Coat by The maker’s Atelier.

Fabrics: cotton & rubber waterproof fabric.

Notions: Gutermann thread, pins, elastic cord, snap fasteners, eyelets, cord lock and 12/80 sharps sewing machine needles.

Pattern Sizing:  12

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Did it look like the photo/line drawing on the pattern once finished?  yes, minus the pockets.

What did you like or dislike about the pattern? I like the simple, well explained, clear instructions.

Did I make any pattern alterations or design changes? I made the parker style alterations, as explained over on The Maker’s Atelier journal.  I bound most of the seams with ready made bias binding and when I ran out overlocked the seams.  Next time I will make my own bias binding, that way I won’t run out.

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Would I sew it again or recommend to others?  Yes, I’ll defiantly make another as the pattern is a dream to sew, maybe next time I’ll make it in Parachute silk as suggested in the pattern.

Conclusion: Wonderful, easy to wear coat.  It took me a few days, dipping in and out – I would have made it in a day if I’d had the time to sit sewing.

I bought the pattern, all fabrics & notions and my opinions are my own.

The Curlew Dress review

I bought the Merchant & Mills Workbook when it was first published and have been looking through over time, just not got down to sewing a pattern from it.  Finally I decided to try the Curlew dress [photographed above] when I found a lovely inky blue linen at Fabrics Galore.  It’s a bias cut dress, with skinny sleeves and a curved waist seam on the back.  There is also a curlew top and sleeveless T-shirt included, the sleeveless top has  different pattern pieces and the top is that combined with the dress sleeves.

the curlew dress from Merchant & Mills workbook

Pattern: The Curlew Dress

Fabrics:  Pure linen from Fabrics Galore

Pattern description: ‘A bias-cut dress is sexy.  It will drape, flow ad flute as it moves with your body, skimming your curves to make you feel like a screen siren.’

Pattern Sizing:  I cut out the  size 12 and could have dropped a size on the top and sleeves for a more fitted look.  Overall the fit is good.

Did it look like the photo/line drawing on the pattern once finished?  Yes, pretty much.

What did you like or dislike about the pattern?  It was fairly quick to trace off the pattern and construction wise I did it my way.  Starting with the bust darts, joining the back pieces together and then the front & back st the shoulder seams.  I put the sleeves in flat and then sew up the arm and side of the dress.

Did I make  any pattern alterations or design changes?  The only changes I made were for fitting.  The sleeve ballooned at the back armhole when I tried the finished dress on, so I altered the sleeves at the armhole and also had to make alterations to the bust darts as it was very baggy and odd looking.

Would I sew it again or recommend to others?  Not sure I’d make it again as it does swallow a lot of fabric 3m in total.

Conclusion:  Overall I am happy with the dress, whether I wear it a lot – the jury’s out on that.  Below is me, twirling!

all the black and white images are form the Merchant & Mills workbook.